On Monday mornings, gold becomes the color of the Bangkok as the sidewalks crowd with the yellow polo shirts of loyal Royalists, showing their support for the king. If there were any color that defines the contrasts of Bangkok's urban culture, it might be gold. It is the shade of tropical heat, and of rapid commercial development. It is the hue of devotion: to king, to god, to money, and to food. It glints in towering business complexes and ornate temple spires, and it glistens on ripe mangos and in sizzling phad thai noodles.